Roll-neck top: GSM, width & consumption

Cost the unfolded component that produces the worn fold

A roll-neck’s visible worn height is not its cut collar depth. Obtain the actual unfolded collar pattern, construction layers and allowances alongside the body, sleeves and other specified pieces. Ask the maker to identify how the intended fold is achieved rather than doubling a mock-neck component by assumption. A single folded construction piece and separately assembled layers can have different cut requirements. The cutter needs the approved actual pieces and orientation rules, not a fashion photograph from which it must guess how much material is hidden in the turnback.

Name the fine-rib and modal weight routes accurately

The FR-401 fine-rib record lists 95% cotton and 5% elastane with Silicone + compacted at 230, 250, 270, 290 and 310 g/m². For the modal proposal, SJ-104 lists 95% modal and 5% elastane single jersey with Bio-polish + soft hand and 150, 160, 170, 180 and 190 g/m² options. No listed weights or ranges overlap. Request the chosen offered weight, tolerance and usable width for each actual route. A mass difference does not by itself predict the worn fold’s thickness or retention, and the local records do not supply a current stock or garment-yield commitment.

Explain a depth change with labelled arithmetic

For hypothetical illustration, suppose one rectangular collar component is 0.45 metres along its cut length and its cut depth increases by 0.04 metres. The extra area is 0.018 square metres. At 250 g/m², that area represents about 4.5 grams before other allowances or marker consequences. These dimensions are fictional, not an AL KUMAŞ collar target or a recommended fold depth. A shaped or multi-piece construction requires its actual area calculation. The example shows that changing the amount available to fold has a material consequence even when the body pattern remains unchanged.

Keep texture direction and joins with the collar marker

Mark how the rib or jersey should run in the collar and whether any joining position is permitted. A narrow marker space is not a usable saving if it requires turning a piece against the approved appearance or adding a contact-point seam. If the collar uses a different material from the body, give it a separate requirement and supply-unit calculation. Ask the cutter to use the planned adult size ratio at the confirmed usable width. The layout should reproduce the component that formed the selected fold, rather than substitute a shorter or differently oriented piece to meet an earlier estimate.

Separate design depth from manufacturing allowances

The amount of material intended for the wearer’s fold belongs in the pattern; seam or edge allowances belong to the actual construction. Ask the maker to identify those quantities rather than hiding them in one unexplained collar-height figure. A deeper fold proposal is a design alternative, while a different seam allowance may be an operation change. Keep separate pattern and costing references for alternatives still under review. The buyer can then see whether the commercial difference comes from body material, a larger collar piece, a new component or another operation.

Use the cared fold decision before adding purchasing losses

Request relevant dimensional information for the offered body and collar under the proposed care procedure. CottonWorks identifies construction, manufacturing and care among dimensional influences, without giving a roll-neck allowance for these articles. Have the technical team explain any pattern compensation and whether it is already included. A collar that needs another accepted depth after the care trial requires an actual revised component, not an unexplained percentage added to the whole top. Keep marker loss, cutting loss and order contingency separate so the same concern is not counted repeatedly without a traceable design decision.

CottonWorks: Shrinkage & Skewing — Construction, manufacturing and care influence dimensional behaviour; no specific FR-401/SJ-104 fold result, allowance or care instruction is supplied.

Compare the complete roll-neck proposal with its real units

Present body and collar material, offered weight, finish, confirmed width, pattern reference, adult size mix and component quantities on the same cost sheet. Identify provisional figures and calculate the accepted unfolded collar rather than the photographed folded height. Use consistent price units and commercial terms across proposals. If the modal route needs a different approved depth or operation from fine rib, cost that actual alternative. Recalculate after a chosen fold change so purchasing orders the roll-neck top developed in sampling instead of a cheaper collar from a superseded wearing convention.