Ribbed tank: GSM, width & consumption

Do not confuse body circumference with material width

A close ribbed tank involves several different widths: the wearer's measurement, the relaxed garment measurement, the pattern dimension and the usable fabric width supplied for cutting. Give each one an explicit label. A tape measurement around the wearer cannot be inserted directly into a fabric consumption estimate, nor does stretching a cutting across a table establish a usable supply width. Ask the pattern and cutting teams which measurements their calculations require. The purchasing comparison should use the confirmed material state and the approved pattern, rather than whichever width makes an early estimate look economical.

State the actual weight being costed

FR-401 is recorded as 95% cotton and 5% elastane at 230, 250, 270, 290 and 310 g/m². RB-301 is also 95% cotton and 5% elastane, at 190, 210, 230, 250 and 270 g/m². Do not put the lowest value from each range beside one generic sample photograph. Ask which precise weight and finish are offered. If the development comparison uses 250 g/m² for both, record that common weight while leaving construction, rib appearance and recovery as separate questions requiring examination.

Use a mass-to-length calculation with visible assumptions

Consider an illustrative open-width material at 250 g/m² and 1.40 metres usable width. One linear metre would weigh 350 grams, because 250 multiplied by 1.40 equals 350. A kilogram would therefore contain about 2.86 theoretical linear metres before allowances. At a hypothetical 1.60-metre width and the same GSM, a metre would weigh 400 grams and a kilogram would contain 2.50 metres. Neither width is an FR-401 or RB-301 offer. The calculation demonstrates that a width change alters the mass-to-length conversion; it does not calculate tanks per kilogram.

Keep orientation restrictions in the marker

The tank's visible rib direction is a design requirement, not an optional marker setting. Tell the cutter whether front and back panels must maintain the same orientation and whether any face or surface direction matters. A rotated piece may fill a gap while producing an unacceptable line arrangement or a different relationship to fabric extension. Ask for a marker using the actual approved restrictions, including the intended neck and armhole components. Review the full size ratio rather than judging yield from two convenient panels in one size.

Resolve the width measurement state with the supplier

Rib material can present a different apparent width when deliberately extended. Ask how the proposed finished usable width is measured and what preparation or resting arrangement applies. CottonWorks describes the general opening behaviour of basic ribs; that explanation does not establish an allowed width or measurement procedure for these catalogue articles. Avoid purchasing on a hand-stretched maximum. If the quotation is tubular, obtain an explicit explanation of the stated dimension and format before converting it into the width expected by an open-width marker.

CottonWorks: Single & Double Knits — Ribs and Rib Gaiting — Basic rib structure opens across width; article-specific usable width and measurement conditions must be confirmed. The 250 GSM calculations use explicitly hypothetical widths and are original arithmetic, not supplier offers.

Separate fit development from cutting allowances

If the tank pattern changes after the first wear trial, update the marker instead of retaining the original consumption because the garment name is unchanged. Ask the maker to distinguish pattern ease, agreed dimensional allowances, marker loss and other purchasing allowances. They answer different questions. A body measurement reduction is not automatically a shrinkage allowance, and a dimensional result after care is not automatically cutting waste. Keep the assumptions visible so that a revised fit, wider binding or longer hem can be reflected in the estimate.

Compare cost per approved tank with the specification attached

Create an offer sheet containing the exact article, offered GSM, confirmed usable width and format, marker reference, size mix, consumption and price basis. Show the binding supply separately if another material is required. Ask the commercial team to confirm quantities, minimums and timing for the actual request; none is established by the catalogue range. The useful comparison is between purchasing scenarios that can deliver the approved tank. A favourable kilogram price is only one input, and it should not justify a width, orientation or fit assumption that the development sample has not supported.